Not every city or town in this country is blessed with the sensuous climate and spectacular colors of the Mediterranean region. But you can re-create that aura with a few well-chosen props and a menu of bold, assertive flavors.

For this party at a handsome Spanish-style home on the Southern California coast, we created a dinner that captured the essence, the vitality, and the joie de vivre of southern France.

An ordinary table was placed in the garden and covered with well-worn cloths in bold, primary colors, decorated with whimsical pitchers packed tightly with roses, hibiscus and sunflowers, and set with colorful hand-painted plates and green-tinged glasses. The table set the perfect stage for the light fare to come.

In the garden, we also set a bar on a small round table. Covered with the same striped cotton cloth and centered with a tall vase of smiling, long-stemmed sunflowers, it was both inviting and convenient. In addition to wines, the table included a low basket of fruit as decor, a clear, cobalt-rimmed pitcher filled with ice water and two lemons sliced 1/4-inch thick, an assortment of glasses, and several flickering votives.

Guests were invited early enough to enjoy the early autumn sunset. With wine glasses in hand, they stood at ocean’s edge and watched the brilliant play of colors.

In the kitchen, everything was readied long before the first ring of the doorbell.

The pissaladiere, a vibrant taste of the French Riviera town of Nice, was topped with caramelized onions, herbes de Provence and chopped marinated Nicoise olives ready to be slipped into a hot oven for 20 minutes. Served with aperitifs, this flaky, pizza-like tart set a bright, informal tone for the rest of the meal.

Soup au pistou, a peasant-style vegetable soup made with a light broth, garden-fresh vegetables and a dollop of fresh basil pesto, is the epitome of the sun-drenched south of France. Yet, to me, it’s also the perfect dinner after a day of skiing - so substantial and nurturing!

Made earlier in the day, the host needs only to heat and ladle it into bowls and pass the pesto and slices of country bread. The main course, Mediterranean sea bass with spring vegetables, needs minimal last-minute fussing. Just salt, pepper, and saute the fillets long enough to seal in the flavor and give a golden cloak, then set aside and finish in the oven for six to eight minutes just before serving. Topped with a quick saute of julienned zucchini, artichoke hearts, carrots and wild mushrooms and a final flurry of cold diced tomatoes and fresh basil, this is classic Mediterranean with an edge!

For a wine, we chose a barrel-aged Sauvignon Blanc to provide some extra richness and flavor but maintain the lightness and elegance of the fare.

For dessert, Creme Caramel. Classic. What else is there to say? It’s easy. It cooks perfectly every time. And it’s the quintessential comfort food with a French passport.

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Pissaladiere
Soup au Pistou
Mediterranean Sea Bass with Spring Vegetables
Creme Caramel